Wed
9
Apr
Glynne Anderson

Lani’s pet bunny is causing problems by chewing on electric cables. What causes this behaviour and how can it be stopped?

Question:

Hi
I have a house bunny who is relatively well housetrained and gets on well with the cats.
Unfortunately she is costing me a fortune in electical bills by constantly chewing live cables, any way one can stop this? She has also chewed through many books.
There are also certain areas that she has taken on as being a toilet - one of them being our tv couch.
I would like her to have the freedom of the house but we are now having to block off areas from her.
Regards
Lani

Hi Lani
Your bunny sounds like a real live wire to me
It’s obvious she prefers chewing on electrical cables and books to whatever you’re feeding her now!
Find some food she enjoys more than wires, and give her plenty of it 24/7, and your problems will be solved.
Hopping it’s sorted soon.
Glynne

del.icio.us Reddit Digg Facebook Google Windows Live Yahoo

Comments:
You can leave a response (below), or trackback from your own site.
RSS:
You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.


Category:
Rabbits
Navigation:

    One Response to “Q&A - Bunny chewing cables”


  1. Liesl Says:

    I have 2 miniature Angora bunnies and they also chew EVERYTHING. From cables to carpets, they’ve even chewed a hole in one of my shoes!! They have plenty food and really get spoilt. Any other suggestions as to keep them from chewing non-consumables? I fear to arrive home and be greeted by 2 giant bunnies after they’ve eaten my whole house!! :-)

    Hi Liesl
    I can assure you your poor bunnies are hungry and cables, carpets and shoes are not a natural diet! Please review the food you are serving up and make sure they get a wide selection of bunny food like they would eat in their natural environment which is large quantities of leaves and grasses, and they would occasionally browse on flowers, fruits, and vegetables.
    ’The important foods in the basic rabbit diet are grass hay, green foods, and cecotropes. Green foods are just as important in their diet as hay, containing a wider variety of micro nutrients as well as water. Greens can be fed to any age of rabbit starting with weaning. Feed one packed cup of greens for each 2 pounds of weight per day, more is fine.
    If your rabbit has not had green foods, they may get soft stools while their digestive tract is adjusting but this is not a health problem, just a bit messy until they are used to it. Start them with hay, and add the greens gradually. Some green foods include broccoli, brussels sprouts, bok choy, kale, cabbage, celery; romaine lettuce, water cress, and dark leafy greens like swiss chard, mustard greens, dandelion greens, parsley, and the tops of carrots or beets.

    You can offer some supplements such as flowers, fruits, and vegetables too. These are also great as part of a reward or training system. These foods should be fed sparingly, at about 2 tablespoons for each 2 pounds of weight per day. Some fruits and vegetables you can offer include apples, pears, peaches, bell peppers, carrots, squash, bean sprouts; some berries such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries; and some flowers include roses, pansies, and snap dragons.

    Commercial treats and other foods that are high in fat and/or starch should be avoided; though a rabbit can handle a very tiny amount they can cause health problems. Some of these include beans, peas, corn, breads, cereals, chocolate, refined sugar, nuts, seeds, wheat, oats, and other grains. It is better to use the supplements described above as treats for your pet.

    The rabbit pellet diet, which used to be recommended as the staple rabbit food, was actually designed for commercial use. Rabbit pellets are loaded with concentrated nutrition to promote rapid growth and they work great for industry purposes. But for a pet rabbit that will have a long life, they have been found to be too high in protein, have too many calories, and don’t have enough indigestible fiber. Many brands today have changed their composition to be suitable for pet rabbits by increasing the indigestible fiber and reducing the proteins and calories, but some have also added seeds, nuts, and sugars which are nice to look at but not a good dietary staple. It is recommended that you use pellets only if hay is unavailable.

    Make sure that a constant water supply is available, as water is very important. Gravity-flow water bottles, which can be found in pet stores, are a good idea. For a healthy rabbit, it is not necessary to provide vitamins, nor do they need do a salt or mineral block.

    Provide the green food in a heavy dish (ceramic works well) that can’t be easily tipped over. You can put the hay directly in the cage or use a hay rack for less mess. Feed approximately once a day. Remove any fresh food at the end of each day so that it doesn’t go bad. Clean food dishes with hot water at least once a week.”
    There you have it all!
    Good luck
    Glynne

Leave a comment